Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV
GPS: 43.2234, -109.7926
FA: unknown
Page Views: 302 total · 11/month
Shared By: Space Dust on Oct 14, 2023
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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Description Suggest change

This route follows the western skyline you see of Square Top from south of the Green River lakes.

From the meadow below the route you will see the obvious crux OW pitch.  Basically head for that OW crack.  Getting to the base of the climb requires a few hundred feet of 4th class climbing.  The crack systems heading to the OW crack are easy to follow with 5.8 to 5.10 climbing.  The rock is generally good but there are some lose flakes and a few section of mediocre rock.  High quality alpine rock climb in a remote setting.

Once you top out, head to the summit plateau by the easiest route.  The decent gully is the second or third gully you come to.  Cautiously check the gullies before committing to the decent.

Location Suggest change

From the Green River Lakes parking area hike around the lakes and follow the trail until it looks like you have a clear cross country hiking route around the north face of Square Top. The crux of the approach is crossing the Green River.  We found a sketchy log crossing but you should be prepared to get wet/swim.  Dry bags are recommend for your gear.  There is a great meadow for camping below the route.

Protection Suggest change

Stoppers, double rack of cams to 3. A #4, 4.5, 5 cam

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