Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Squaretop Mountain

AC/DC T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Description

Glimpses of Squaretop can be seen towards the end of the long drive to the Green River Lakes trailhead. The mountain's commanding prescence makes it appear much closer than its 8 mile distance from the start of the Highline trail. It becomes even more apparent how massive the mountain is while hiking the Green around its base.

Squaretop Mountain has a largely obscure history of ascents, despite being climbed by the likes of Beckey, Kor, the Lowes, and others. Squaretop's most impressive walls for technical climbing are located on the east, north and west faces. To the southeast Squaretop can be ascended/descended above Granite lake via 2nd class slopes.

Note: If you've climbed Squaretop, have any corrections or related info feel free to contribute. Also see Joe Kelsey's book Climbing & Hiking in the Wind River Mountains for more details.

Getting There

To reach the south and east sides of Squaretop follow the Highline Trail from the Green River trailhead 11 miles to Beaver Park, and than up steep slopes to Granite Lake. To access the north and west faces, I have read that it requires crossing over to the west side of Green River further down near the Upper Green Lake. See the Squaretop 7.5 minute topo for help on this.

1 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Squaretop Mountain Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Taken from above: ...Joe Kelsey's book Climbing & Hiking in the Wind River Mountains for more details.

More details?? Getting him to publish such worthwhile stuff would be like talking to a wall.

That book is a perfunctory list of routes. Feb 28, 2014
AAJ 1961: Fred Beckey [Ed Cooper: this would've been later in the summer (Aug/Sept)]: "Northeast Face, Squaretop. Layton Kor and I started our climb up a steepening slab system on the northeast face, between two converging couloirs. This section had about six leads, two of which had some quite difficult free moves protected by pitons. No aid was used. The rock was excellent. From this converging point, which was actually a short arĂȘte leading into a central couloir between great vertical walls, we followed the couloir and its right side for about four leads, then struck directly upward on a steep wall that was well broken with cracks and flakes. A number of pitons were used in this wall for protection, and again there were various strenuous technical problems. Once on the summit rim, it was a few minutes' walk to the curious top. Both our party and Cooper's reached the summit shortly before evening and made the descent to the valley by the southern slopes. The long walk to camp was featured by moose and moonlight. Although the approaches are tedious for this region, we feel that Squaretop has great climbing possibilities. These two routes are the only continuously difficult and long high-angle problems accomplished in the northern Wind River range, to my knowledge, and give proof to the surmise that classic alpine rock climbs of difficulty exist there." Apr 27, 2018

More About Squaretop Mountain

Printer-Friendly
What's New

All Photos Within Squaretop Mountain (6)

Most Popular · Newest · Random