Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS: 35.15427, -85.68136
FA: Unkown FA
Page Views: 381 total · 12/month
Shared By: Rex S on Sep 26, 2023
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

An absolute blast of a beginner's Trad route. The climb starts off with a V2ish bouldery start on the absolute furthest left of the Shaman Cave. Just find an area of the roof you can reach and away you go up juggy holds and amazing placement.

 ~~Be advised there is plenty of debris and some small amount of loose rock due to apparently not being climbed much ~~ 

Find yourself on a miniature version of "the parking lot" ledge and prepare for the super fun portion of climbing up the crack. (Can take a piece anywhere from 3-6 in this area so have fun with bomber gear) The climb finishes off with a super fun top out over a slabby rounded top to climbers right of where the crack ends.

(There is a class 5.0 type finish at the top where the crack ends but it is overgrown and bushwhack-y and where our second came up with the name "Dancing with death" after tangling themselves up in shrubs and dead trees and subsequently fighting out of them haha)

There are numerous bomber trees to anchor to. From there you can short belay ~15-20 left to the anchors for Drama which can be reached from a sitting position on top of the wall. 

Set up a lower from there and walk away smiling. :)

Location Suggest change

Just past the last set of bolts (Bra Burner) on the ladies delight wall you will see the Shaman cave beginning. You will see a very obvious grouping of three trees where the climb begins. Start underneath the "roof" and haul yourself up onto killer jugs and follow the obvious line to the top.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack with a large piece anywhere from 3-6 to protect the ledge/after the ledge.

Photos

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