Lynch Glacier

The Lynch Glacier was climbed more often in the past when it was larger and easier to access.  Recent years have seen glacial recession which has led many people to avoid it.  However with some scrambling and good navigation skills it is very reasonable.  Even in late season of 2023 it was very doable when most of the glacier was opened up to old glacial ice.

From the outlet of Pea Soup Lake head up towards the finger that spills down on the far right side.  In early season, this finger would make a simple and straightforward entry point to the main section of the Lynch Glacier and it lets a person by-pass the lower icefall section that drops into the lake. In late season when the finger is too broken up, Class 3 scrambling just left of the finger will led a person to the prominent knoll above the lake.  From here access the glacier and aim for the point where the West Pyramid of Mt. Daniel touches the glacier.  There is a small rocky rib that must be crossed directly below the pyramid and the moat crossing can be tricky.  In 2023 it was simple up high and impassible down low.  Once across the moat, the upper Lynch is simple in terms of navigation...right up the middle.  The crux of the route in later season might be finding a place to cross the moat at the upper reaches of the Lynch into the col between the Middle and True summits of Mt. Daniel.  From this col walk the regular climbers trail the last couple hundred feet to the true summit.

The Lynch Glacier is best accessed from the outlet of Pea Soup Lake.  The easiest approach would be starting at the Deception Pass Trailhead and hike up to Marmot/Jade Lakes.  From there continue on up to Dip Top Gap.  Once at the gap stay high and traverse west until you reach the shoulder looking into the Foss River drainage.  It is now a simple hike down and left to the camping sites at the outlet of Pea Soup Lake.

Standard glacier gear.