Type: | Trad, 560 ft (170 m), 6 pitches |
FA: | Nick Weicht 9/9/2023 |
Page Views: | 189 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Nick Weicht on Sep 14, 2023 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Luke Bertelsen, Loren P |
Description
6b+, 170m
1 30m 6b+
2 30m 6a+
3 20m 6b+
4 30m 6b+
5 30m 6a
6 30m 5a
P1. 30m 6b+ 2 bolts + trad, bolted belay. Start up the inside corner plugging small to medium sized gear till you get to a ledge 18 meters up. Break left through a short steep section protected by a bolt and follow a thin crack to an anchor beneath the slightly overhanging portion of wall.
P2. 30m 6a+, 4 bolts + trad, bolted belay. Follow three bolts through a steep section of climbing. The angle backs off and ample cracks provide lots of protection up a less than vertical portion of the climb. Clip one more bolt that is there as a breadcrumb to help avoid loose rock or straying onto the sport line.
P3. 20m 6b+, 1 bolt + trad, bolted belay. From a comfortable belay ledge break up and left at a 45 degree angle past a nice gear placement to a bolt that is clearly visible. After this you will be following a obvious crack system that goes between inside corners and a short chimney section to an anchor located in an alcove.
P4. 30m 6b+ trad, bolted belay. Pull steep hero moves protected by a unique thread through just above the anchor. Glorious inside corner climbing with consistent crack protection ascends a beautiful pitch of rock to an anchor located beneath a slight overhang.
P5. 30m 6a, trad, bolted belay. Pull a few steep moves on good holds before the angle lightens up a bit and you get into enjoyable stemming up a flared chimney feature. Easy moves will bring you to a large ledge that marks the top of the technical climbing of the route. Clip a high anchor and belay your partner up to a great view.
P6. 30m 4c, trad, bolted belay. This alpineish scramble pitch up the left side of the gully adjacent to the final pitch of the sport route brings you to the top of the feature if one wants to make it to the high point or walk off the backside to the parking area near Vrisi.
Decent:
Rappel the route or walk off following karens up and east before descending directly to the parking area in the direction of Vrisi.
Location
2.15km (1.33m)
Expect 1-1.5 hrs
Park here: 38.53740, 24.04107
Climb here: 38.53683, 24.02509
Hike down the dirt road and follow cairns around a small grove of olive trees. Soon after, take a right at the split on flat terrain. Follow cairns past many features along the north side of the mountain (the bulk of the hike). Continue past To Reloi and across another scree field. At the split go upward more or less following the cliff line and some cairns.
Right edge of the Abantes Buttress. Begins up a left facing dihedral.
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