The Bone Collector
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British A2 R
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 40.97935, -111.43223 |
| FA: | John Climaco & Dan McCann September 3, 2023 |
| Page Views: | 389 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | john Climaco on Sep 3, 2023 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Jim Clarke, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Description
First of all, this formation is called Monument Rock. I like a pierced nipple as much as the next person but let’s call this little tower by its real name which is Monument Rock. Interestingly enough, Edward Whymper’s brother Fredrick memorialized this name in 1869 when traveling west on the transcontinental railroad as a correspondent for the Illustrated London News. Since he made a drawing for the paper we know it is this tower. It also shows up in many easy to find 19th C. photographs and etchings with this name. Lastly, it was of course well-know to all transcontinental rail travelers for over 100 years and was an important milestone for the early US Army and emigrants because it is located approximately 1000 miles due west of Omaha.
But that is history, as the saying goes. If your taste runs to the perverse or the thought of the Fisher Towers gives you a chubby, you’ve come to the right place.
Pitch 1:
Climb the mud curtain on hooks and whatever else will stick for about 30 feet to a large horizontal. There is an intermediate belay here. Use hooks, an angle in a pod and a couple fixed pins to gain the faint crack. Get creative to nail it while it lasts, using the odd hook move where it disappears. Look for a couple pods that will take sawed offs or hooks; wooden wedges may help too. Follow this feature to reach the belay at a small stance with 2 drilled 3/4” angles. 120’ A2 R
Pitch 2:
Use two drilled angles above the belay to gain the left leaning arch. Climb the arch on cams, angles and an arrow to its end where a large Ibis hook move out left will get you to a 5 move rivet/drilled angle ladder. From the last rivet, which is body weight only, climb to the top at 5.5 on reasonable rock. Long slings may be helpful as rope drag can be an issue. 5.5 A2 R 90’
Be aware vibrations from nailing can dislodge cobbles below you, including the ones holding the gear you’re standing on in place. There is an anchor on the summit now consisting of two drilled 3/4” angles. You may want slings to rap from. I think you want 70s to get to the ground in one shot.
Location
Once you see the tower from Echo canyon road heading east you will quickly come to a dirt road heading steeply up hill. Follow this and park before the gate. Walk west toward the drainage and follow a game trail on the east side of the drainage to the tower base. The route is located on the west side on the tower and stays shady until about 11:30.
Protection
2x short thin blades
1x medium lost arrow
1x short thick lost arrow
2x large Moses straight tomahawks
4x 1/2” angles
3x sawed off 3/4” angles
2x full length 3/4” angles
1x sawed off 1” angle
1x sawed off 1 1/2” angle
1x full length 1 1/2” angle
1x full length 2” angle
1x #3 Camelot
1x green totem
1x 1.5 offset friend
1 red ball nut
1 red tricam
1 #6 wire
1x flat leeper hook
1x large BD hook
1 large pika Ibis hook
3 rivet hangers
At least a couple screamers
A selection of small wooden wedges may be useful
Many biners
Tie offs
Slings
Draws
a few medium copperheads in case
Funkness - cleaning is often awkward



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