Tee Time

North facing, not too committing, and not so far from the road, but still hidden because of its position relative to the overlook--what's not to like here? We found and removed two folf discs and a golf ball in the boulderfield on the approach, courtesy of some folks at the overlook no doubt--at least it gave us a name for the route.

This is a line of higher quality than Put Me On A Pedestal, especially the first two pitches which feature far more quality stone--cleaner, easy, albeit with spaced protection. We would not recommend this for a 5.7 leader, as there are numerous 30ft runouts. Additionally, it is Glacier--you will find

Pitch 1: 5.7 R, 60m: climb up from the start platform following intermittent crack systems generally straight up the middle of the slab. You'll see one angle fixed in a crack. There can be some seepage so maybe not ideal in the spring or following storms. Belay in a left facing corner in some of the more blocky terrain.

Pitch 2: 5.6 R, 65m: Climb up and left from the belay, and eventually work into the right facing dihedral that curves in from climbers left. Follow this curve to the right, up some looser steps, and belay in the trees.You'll want at least three double length slings for extending placements in the dihedral.

Pitch 3: 5.5, 40m: Either head left off the belay, or right up into the left facing dihedral, but be careful not to knock anything on your belayer, as this pitch is more loose. Head straight up, move between some stacked choss, and belay off solid trees.

Descent: walk up a little, then hard left and traverse back to the Oberlin climbers trail which will take you back to the parking lot.

 

Walk up the left side of the talus cone that reached up to the base of Smash N Grab Slab. The route follows an intermittent crack on clean stone directly above a large boulder which conveniently serves as a spot to belay. This slab has a dihedral on either side. 

Single rack nuts, doubles of 00 Metolius UL Mastercam to BD #3 (you could probably bring just a single #2 and #3, but I did use both 3s on the second pitch). Many long slings, and at least three double length options.