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Routes in Glacier National Park

Eagle's Claw, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
NE Ridge, Mt. St. Nicholas T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face of Heavy Runner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Quadra-Fecta T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b PG13
Trough, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Elevation: 10,479 ft
GPS: 48.696, -113.717 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 12,985 total, 440/month
Shared By: Granite RockofAges on Jul 12, 2015
Admins: grk10vq

Description

Glacier National Park generally is not considered a popular destination for 5th class trad and alpine climbers. Due to unstable rock in many areas and loose scree approaches that can be rather long and arduous most climbers are happy to search for more sport (type) routes elsewhere around Montana. But for the pure mountaineer with a desire to work hard in the alpine zone, GNP offers unbelievable opportunities for endless numbers of technical FA (first ascent) lines up massive vertical walls as high as 4,000. The faces high on these impressive glaciated peaks generally stand around 8,000 to 10,000 feet in altitude. Most of them untouched with the majority of even professional climbers opting to leave them that way. Frankly put, this area of the Rocky Mountains is reserved for the hardcore trad/alpine climber with no fear of marginal rock quality with an intense desire to pursue this style of climbing for the sake of claiming new territory.

Ironically, the summer time peak-baggers with a light day pack find plenty to do in the park since no technical climbing is required on most of these mountains which have an "easy" side that involves no more than a long class 2-3 scree scramble of several miles. BUT for the 5th class climbing enthusiast with big ambitions its a different story. Packing heavy technical gear & seeking new high alpine/trad routes, expect long approaches whether on goat trails, dense untracked forest, snow fields, glaciers and seemingly unending scree slopes before ever reaching the huge plethora of seldom attempted massive faces of Glacier Natl Park.

Being that the rock quality is so questionable and often is more prone to lead unprepared climbers into rather epic circumstances, this area is not recommended for most technical climbers. All that being said, for the advanced climber prepared for all the subjective and objective dangers that mountains can offer, GNP is still virtually an undiscovered and unimaginable playground for the true spirit of high alpine feats. Climbing in winter adds another extreme dimension to an already unstable environment requiring the trad /alpinist to exercise every physical and mental faculty he possesses with the greatest of skill and wisdom.

Bottom line... don't attempt technical 5th class climbing here unless you got ALL your **** together. Getting RESCUED or worse ... losing your life because of your lack of abilities and knowledge is an unnecessary event. Not to mention it stains the greater climbing community's reputation & name. "If in doubt, just don't do it." Because... no climb is worth a tragic ending.
Big Horn Sheep Closures Details

Getting There

Access
Glacier Natl.Park can be accessed via many entrance sites. Including West Glacier, Two Medicine, Polebridge, Camas Crk, Cut Bank, St Mary, Many Glacier, and Chief Mtn. As well as numerous trail access points that may require fording of rivers.

Please be mindful of Glaciers Posted Closures:




Approaches:
Many climbs require hours if not days to approach. Logistics is often the other reason besides poor rock quality, many climbers decide not to climb in Glacier Park.

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^Chris,

Areas would probably make more sense, but due to the nature of the rock and most of the lines that have been put up, very few areas have multiple technical options in the same vicinity. It probably makes more sense to keep everything in one park-wide bucket until specific areas take off. Aug 16, 2016
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Shouldn't the park be split up into areas? or at least peaks? Going from Park > Route will cause problems in the future if people make more contributions. Jul 12, 2016

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