Glacier National Park Climbing
|GPS:||48.696, -113.717 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Granite RockofAges on Jul 12, 2015 · Updates|
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protection of revegetation projects, existing resident vegetation and seasonal habitat for
congregating bighorn sheep and mountain goats:
1) The Logan Pass area, which consists of all areas within the following exterior boundaries: Oberlin Peak climber trail, from the trailhead, to Oberlin Peak; Oberlin Peak to Clements Peak; Clements Peak, along Clements Ridge, to the first switchback on the Hidden Lake Trail; first switch back on the Hidden Lake Trail, along the first bench above Hidden Lake, to Reynolds Pass; Reynolds Pass, along the southern edge of the Hanging Garden area, to the cliff wall above the Reynolds Creek valley; and bound by the remainder of the cliff wall, above Reynolds Creek valley, and Going-to-the-Sun Road. Refer to map section at end of chapter. Exceptions: i) The following trails are not included in this closure: Logan Pass Visitor Center walkways, Hidden Lake Trail, Oberlin Peak climber route, Clements Peak climber route and Reynolds Peak climber route.
ii) Over snow travel is not included in this closure, so long as travel is NOT conducted over bare ground, rock, or vegetation and all travel is on contiguous snowpack immediately accessible from established trail.
Ironically, the summer time peak-baggers with a light day pack find plenty to do in the park since no technical climbing is required on most of these mountains which have an "easy" side that involves no more than a long class 2-3 scree scramble of several miles. BUT for the 5th class climbing enthusiast with big ambitions its a different story. Packing heavy technical gear & seeking new high alpine/trad routes, expect long approaches whether on goat trails, dense untracked forest, snow fields, glaciers and seemingly unending scree slopes before ever reaching the huge plethora of seldom attempted massive faces of Glacier Natl Park.
Being that the rock quality is so questionable and often is more prone to lead unprepared climbers into rather epic circumstances, this area is not recommended for most technical climbers. All that being said, for the advanced climber prepared for all the subjective and objective dangers that mountains can offer, GNP is still virtually an undiscovered and unimaginable playground for the true spirit of high alpine feats. Climbing in winter adds another extreme dimension to an already unstable environment requiring the trad /alpinist to exercise every physical and mental faculty he possesses with the greatest of skill and wisdom.
Bottom line... don't attempt technical 5th class climbing here unless you got ALL your **** together. Getting RESCUED or worse ... losing your life because of your lack of abilities and knowledge is an unnecessary event. Not to mention it stains the greater climbing community's reputation & name. "If in doubt, just don't do it." Because... no climb is worth a tragic ending.
The 3,500-foot north face of Mt. Siyeh (10,014') in Glacier National Park, with the new Cordes-Woods line marked. Courtesy of Kelly Cordes.
Glacier Natl.Park can be accessed via many entrance sites. Including West Glacier, Two Medicine, Polebridge, Camas Crk, Cut Bank, St Mary, Many Glacier, and Chief Mtn. As well as numerous trail access points that may require fording of rivers.
Please be mindful of Glaciers Posted Closures:
Many climbs require hours if not days to approach. Logistics is often the other reason besides poor rock quality, many climbers decide not to climb in Glacier Park.
Unclimbed East Faces of the Continental Divide - Glacier National Park
Classic Climbing Routes at Glacier National Park
Days w Precip