Luttrell Route

This is the northwest couloir of El Diente, the preeminent snow climb in Navajo Basin and in my opinion one of the top 3 pure snow climbs in the state. It's aesthetic, steep, reliable, and in typical conditions goes for about 2,000 feet.

After Jarrett Luttrell became the first person to snowboard all the 14ers in 2010, some people started calling this line after him. Certainly it was climbed long ago and perhaps descended as well, but I'm not aware of any other name except the Northwest Couloir; I've always called it Luttrell.

From Navajo Lake or Rock of Ages, make your way to the north face of El Diente. This line is just west of the North Buttress. Ascend talus directly below the buttress, then step right into the couloir. In season, the snow will extend to 12300' or lower, and access should not involve any scrambling on the buttress.

Climb steepening snow for ~1300 feet towards a rocky headwall. Just before the headwall is reached, a chute appears to the left. Ascend this for 400 feet to a pronounced snow arete and a preview of the remaining route. Ahead is The Fox, an aptly named hanging snowfield which is normally the snow and exposure crux of the route. Step over the arete (usually very steep) and traverse left across the wildly exposed snowfield to the attractive chute on the other side. Climb this for 200 feet directly to the summit!

For best results, continue with the traverse to Mount Wilson (class 3 - 4) and descend via its north slopes.

The best conditions should be found mid-June into early July. Time your ascent so The Fox is not too soft when you reach it, and be ready for loads of air beneath you.

This area is wildly popular for hiking, backpacking, and 14ering. Not to belabor the approach beta, access is from CO 145 either south of Telluride via the Navajo Lake trail (#635) or west of Telluride via the Rock of Ages trail (#429).

Navajo Lake, though slightly longer, is the preferred approach since it is incredibly scenic, has better camping, and affords a preview of the route and conditions.

Helmet, crampons, and axes or tools to comfort. It is not recommended to pitch this out. In good conditions, pickets would offer solid protection.