Standard Route

Caution: due to loose rock and rockfall hazard the park service does not recommend anyone climb the Black Tusk. That being said, it is a rather popular scramble. Be aware that loose rock is very common. Party induced rockfall is a real hazard. Test holds for soundness as loose holds exist. This route requires use of hands and feet for three primary sections, the last of which has significant exposure, and from all places a fall would result in injury. This climb receives 1 star for the climbing but 2 for the views.

Ascent: Once the correct chimney is located (see Location below): Climb up the chimney using hand and footholds past two steep sections. Beware of loose rocks. Note trail tape marking the route. Continue up into a squeeze chimney on gently sloping ground. Continue straight out of the chimney near a large drop on climber’s left. Be careful. Climb upwards on top of the squeeze chimney. This may be the crux for some but is not too difficult. Continue on loose talus using a wall as handholds to the summit.

Descent: Descend the climbing route. Ensure to NOT go into the wrong chimney on skiers left on the way down. This is a common error. Ensure to descend the chimney that you originally ascended.

Start at Rubble Creek Trailhead. Note that a day-use permit is now required. Roundtrip this is a 18 mile hike but it is a quite reasonable day trip given how nice the trails are (seriously they go quick). From the end of the maintained trail on the Black Tusk Viewpoint trail (there is a board signaling the end) continue upwards via obvious climbers’ trails to the ridge and Black Tusk Viewpoint. From here pick up a trail that wraps climber’s left around the Black Tusk. Continue about 200m on this trail until you see two obvious wide chimneys on your right that are big enough for a person to fit in. Take the left most chimney. Note that the trail wraps around the formation a bit longer but leads to a cliff.

Helmet strongly recommended. Rope and gear wouldn’t do much good in the crumbly volcanic rock.