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Routes in Hobnail Buttress
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Hobnail Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mugger T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Pyramid Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Twin Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 53.00945, -6.37644 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 148 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tim Barry on Jun 30, 2023 |
| Admins: |
Description
Start on the left flank of the buttress around the western corner. A crack runs up to a little overhang directly under the pyramid.
Pitch 1: 18m Climb the crack and continue straight up for 10m. Move left to gain the base of the Pyramid - a huge perched block with a crack running up its left side. Climb this crack to a stance near its top. Gear anchor for belay, takes medium cams.
Pitch 2: 12m From the top of the Pyramid make a committing move (step over) across a void to gain the wall behind (crux). Climb the overlap and finish up on quartzy holds. 2 blocks can be slung for a belay.
Descent: Walk off to the left of the pyramid (as seen from base) or there is boulders that can be slung to set up a rappel, which you can leave up for your duration at the crag. Rappel takes you back to the base of the Hobnail Buttress. Tie knots, 30m rap drops you on a ledge a few metres above the ground, easy walkoff.
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