Arrested Development

Location: See Porcupine Creek Wall page for approach directions.  The route starts just right of a short left-trending corner system below a large slab on the center-right side of the formation.

A variation start to Salad Days that avoids the crux finger crack via four pitches of generally moderate crack and face climbing with a short bolt-protected 5.10- crux.  The result is a lot of consistent 5.7-5.9 climbing on sound granite. 

P1  Easy slab leads to short bolt-protected arete forming right side of left-leaning corner.  Stay right of small, stepped roofs before a somewhat exciting mantle leads back left onto slab above.  5.8 100’

P2 Easy corners lead to obvious flake.   Climb flake ~25’ to just before a horn-like jug.  Make a short, tenuous traverse across the wall to the left using an obvious sloping foot rail.  Keep traversing under steep orange rock to a tightly bolted jug haul that avoids loose blocks. Belay at a large solid slung block.  5.9 200’

P3  Scramble up 20' of blocky terrain then step right and layback the obvious wide crack.  Continue up a slab then step down and right around the corner to a bolted anchor at a small ledge (anchor is arranged such that you can protect your second using higher bolt).   5.8 90’

P4  Easy climbing leads up a slabby edge (5.7) until forced out onto the face.  A couple well-protected crux moves leads to a short finger and hand crack.   At a large horn move up right into another short crack and corner.  At its top step down and left to large ledge atop Salad Days crux third pitch.  5.10-  130'

Continue up P4-P8 of Salad Days.

Rappel Salad Days to base of finger crack then continue down Arrested Development

• 1x 70m rope
• 12 mostly alpine runners
• nuts
• 2x 0.5”-1.75”
• 1x 2”- 4”