Type: Boulder, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: John Long (1980’s)
Page Views: 243 total · 11/month
Shared By: James Braithwaite on Apr 17, 2023
Admins: Luke EF, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Sustained, reachy, and crimpy with a crux at the very top.

Stand start with a left hand crimp at about 7 feet and a right hand pocket/crimp above it.

Make crimpy moves up the face until reaching the beginning of the crux about 20 feet up.

The final reach to a poor crimp at 25 feet is the end of the crux, and is also extremely difficult if you are shorter (at 5’8” + 0” I had to use a thumb undercling as an intermediate, and still almost fell going for it at full extension) Guidebook gives it V5

Toprope rehearsal is recommended

Sit start beta video: youtu.be/iIjL5YUbb8E

Location Suggest change

East face of the boulder, about 7 feet left of the right arete.

Protection Suggest change

As many pads as you can bring (10 is likely the minimum amount to handle a fall from the crux as you need at least a double stack)

Photos

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