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Marriage
V6+ R,
Boulder, 30 ft (9 m),
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
FA: John Long (1980’s)
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rock Boulders
> (01) Calico Bas…
> Kraft Boulders
> (02) Cube Area
> Cube
Access Issue: Kraft Boulders parking
Details
When bouldering at Kraft, be sure to park along the paved road, and NOT on the private driveways!
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Sustained, reachy, and crimpy with a crux at the very top.
Stand start with a left hand crimp at about 7 feet and a right hand pocket/crimp above it.
Make crimpy moves up the face until reaching the beginning of the crux about 20 feet up.
The final reach to a poor crimp at 25 feet is the end of the crux, and is also extremely difficult if you are shorter (at 5’8” + 0” I had to use a thumb undercling as an intermediate, and still almost fell going for it at full extension) Guidebook gives it V5
Toprope rehearsal is recommended
Sit start beta video: youtu.be/iIjL5YUbb8E
Location
East face of the boulder, about 7 feet left of the right arete.
Protection
As many pads as you can bring (10 is likely the minimum amount to handle a fall from the crux as you need at least a double stack)
instagram.com/reel/C0xMWKPv… Dec 12, 2023