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Early Access
Routes in Cougar Cliffs
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Arachnaphobia S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ass End of a Circle TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bud Hole V8+ 7B+ |
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Bug's Boulder V4 6B |
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Calvin Klein V1 5 |
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Catatonic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cougar Cliffs | 8545 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Delusions of Grandeur S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Eat the French S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Forsaken S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Friday Evening with Friends S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Going for the Throat S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Heaven's a Lie S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Indecent Exposure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Makin Bacon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Noodle Doodle S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pearls Before Swine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Petting the Pussycat S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pigsty S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Porca Miseria S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Split Decisions T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sunday Afternoon w/ The Family S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Swine of a Rock S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Time Machine V1+ 5 |
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When Pigs Fly S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 37.1618, -113.6102 |
| FA: | Jake Bennett and Dustin Chen, April 2023 |
| Page Views: | 401 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Jake Bennett on Apr 8, 2023 |
| Admins: | Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Cougar Cliffs are located in the Red Cliffs Desert Reserve, and managed by Snow Canyon S.P.
Details
Description
"Split Decisions" is a an exciting trad climbing route located on the far north side of Cougar Cliffs. The climb features two parallel cracks that run up both sides, which can be stemmed for most of the way up. The route is entirely trad, with no bolts, and the rock quality is slightly chossy, but similar to the rest of the routes at Cougar Cliffs. While climbing the route, one should be careful of hollow rock, as there were some areas where the rock sounded hollow, though no rocks broke off during the climb.
The climb is characterized by sweet moves and plenty of opportunities to place gear. The route is relatively straight, so there's not much need to expend pieces, and there's almost no rope drag. However, climbers should note that the last 10 feet of the climb are slightly run-out, but it's more like scrambling than climbing. The top of the climb is at the obvious 5-7 foot ledge where the cliff turns from slightly less than vertical to overhanging. At the top, there's no bolted anchor, but there's a nice horizontal crack that will fit a number 2 yellow BD cam, multiple number 1 red BD cams, or a 0.75 green BD cam (whatever you haven't used as pro on the way up)
The crux of the climb is about 3/4 of the way up when the two parallel cracks widen, making it challenging to stem between the two walls.
It would be easiest to climb this route "multi-pitch" style by leading and bringing the follower up from the top as he cleans the route, then hike off from the top without lowering back down.
If anyone has previously climbed this route as a first ascent, please inform me so that I can update the FA information on this climb's page.
Location
The route is located on the far north side of Cougar Cliffs. This route is located at the base of the cliff, not on top of the cliffs even with the road. So hiking down to the base of the cliffs will be required. When you first walk in the gate for the area, head north (right) until you are able to hike down. There is a fixed line set up as of April 2023 which offers a slight shortcut, or you can simply hike around to the base of the cliffs. The route can be clearly seen as 2 parallel cracks running up the length of the route.
Protection
A standard rack of doubles in 0.3-2 would suffice depending how frequently you would like to place gear. I used the following BD gear, however I placed gear quite frequently and built a bomber 4 cam anchor at the top:
3 Red #1
2 Yellow #2
1 Blue #3
1 Blue 0.3
2 Grey 0.4
1 Yellow 0.2
3 Purple 0.5
2 Green 0.75
1 #8 offset nut
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