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Routes in Cougar Cliffs

Arachnaphobia S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Catatonic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eat the French S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Forsaken S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Friday Evening with Friends S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Geezer Holocaust S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Going for the Throat S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heaven's a Lie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Indecent Exposure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Noodle Doodle S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pearls Before Swine S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Petting the Pussycat S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pigsty S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunday Afternoon w/ The Family S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
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Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Marc Hansen
Page Views: 666 total · 7/month
Shared By: Marius vanderMerwe on Jul 1, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Cougar Cliffs are located in the Red Cliffs Desert Reserve, and managed by Snow Canyon S.P. Details


This is the bolted line to the left of Forsaken (5.11a). Like Forsaken, it can be done in one pitch, in which case a 70 m rope will be needed to lower the leader from the top anchor. Alternatively, fixed anchors on a large ledge halfway up can be used to divide the climb into 2 pitches.

The climb starts on an easy but fun face with varnished holds. The crux is gaining access to a thin crimpy face via some surprisingly awkward moves. The top of the climb is overhanging but with large holds.


This is one of 3 excellent sport routes on the imposing cliff face right below the rapellers favorite anchoring spot (this would be the cliff face closest to the parking area along Hwy 18). From the parking area walk towards the right where there is a faint trail and a class 4 scramble to the bottom of the routes.


Bolted all the way.


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Nathan Marsh
st. george utah
  5.11c PG13
Nathan Marsh   st. george utah
  5.11c PG13
i liked this route. i thought the crux section was great and wished it was longer. very sequential, but once you figure it out, its not too bad. I will say i climbed the whole route and felt that the top was not really worth climbing, i would just climb to the first anchors and finish there. although the top does give a completely distinct type of climbing, so it makes it feel like two completely different routes, which can be fun. i gave the route a pg13 rating because the 2nd clip after the first anchor has the potential to deck on the shelf if you fall. I also found it to be an awkward clip, which could lead to a lot of falls. Nov 18, 2012
Dr. Dan
Steamboat Springs, CO
Dr. Dan   Steamboat Springs, CO
P1 of Heaven is a Lie has the easiest start of any of the 3 routes. Crux is 11c (but easier than route on far right). Upper pitch is fun, steep with good hands. Liked P2 on Forsaken better, but both fun sustained climbing. Nov 19, 2014

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