Ute Canyon

Another Grand Junction classic, this inviting streak of ice forms on a series of ledges and pour-overs in Ute Canyon.

Fire up the steep, often thin and chandeliered crux out of the gate. After the first 50 feet or so, reach a platform below easier ice. A rappel anchor can be found up the ledge to climber's left here. Or, continue rambling up easy ice until it's possible to belay off screws. Another rappel anchor may be found to climber's left on the large bench above.

From here the ice keeps going for hundreds of feet, and it's worth the scenic ramble. Most parties will solo the remainder, but there are a few sections of steeper WI2 that may warrant a belay. After the creek flattens out, escape the canyon to climber's right when feasible, head north to intercept the Ute Canyon Trail or Corkscrew Trail, and follow either back down.

This one does not form regularly and is very susceptible to temps and sunhit. Thankfully it's easy to scout.

Access Broadway via South Broadway or Redlands Parkway. To scope conditions (recommended), 1 mile west of the Broadway/Redlands intersection, go south on South Camp Rd. for 1 mile to Wingate Elementary School. From there, the critical lower pitch should be visible at the bottom of the canyon to the west.

Head back (north) to where South Camp tees into South Broadway, go west 1/2 mile, then turn south onto Wildwood and follow it past some residences to the Wildwood Trailhead.

From the trailhead hike west, taking the first left onto the Corkscrew Trail cutoff (or go left at the Y and follow the Liberty Cap Trail to the Corkscrew Trail). In 1.2 miles from the trailhead, a rocky bench offers a view into the canyon. Leave the trail here and make a descending traverse for a couple hundred yards to the first pitch.

A 60m rope and an ice rack including stubbies. A few finger-size cams may come in handy if it's thin.