Type: Ice, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches
GPS: 37.93652, -107.78872
FA: unknown
Page Views: 206 total · 5/month
Shared By: mike d on Feb 14, 2023
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Warning Access Issue: Public access east of Telluride is limited to the Tomboy Rd and FS 648 (Black Bear/Bridalveil) DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is the leftmost flow where the Tomboy (Imogene Pass) Road intersects Royer Gulch.

If it's cold and cloudy, there may be a lot of ice on the lower slab. In that case, climb a ~60 foot pitch of WI2-3 and belay off small trees or continue to the base of the next pitch. If the slab doesn't exist, the first pitch may be bypassed on the left via a sloping ledge.

The second pitch is a 50m WI2-3 ramble leading to a nice bench below the final pillar. Plan to belay off screws.

Climb the fun but short column (WI3-4, 40 feet) and continue up the snow/ice ramp to boulders and trees. If the ice is questionable, aid up the fat steel cable.

Rappel back down.

Location Suggest change

As for Upper Royer:

Although this climb is on public land, the lower end of Royer Gulch (below 9400') is private, so this area may only be accessed via the Tomboy Road. The climbs in lower Royer Gulch are off limits.

If it's Sunday, you can park on North Willow St., otherwise proceed east two more blocks, and take a right just past the bus stop for unrestricted free parking at the Town Park.

Head back to North Willow, turn right (north), and walk up the street. Turn right again at the T, and find a trail just past the house on the right. Where the trail splits, head left on up to the Tomboy Road. Hike up this road for just under 2 miles to the obvious ice in Royer Gulch. Snowshoes are recommended if the locals haven't put in the trail yet.

Protection Suggest change

A standard ice rack and a v-threader.

Photos

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