True Love
V7 YDS 7A+ Font R
| Type: | Boulder, 17 ft (5 m) |
| GPS: | 37.42127, -118.43352 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 224 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Fauteux on Jan 26, 2023 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
This one takes some love and dedication or a hard head.
Stem between the blocks to the base of the tall face. Gran a good right hand triangular shaped hold and a left hand edge. Pull onto the face over a no fall zone and iron cross out to a sloping pocket. Make a long reach to a two finger pocket, then execute some spicy foot moves and head left. Finally there becomes a landing for the next sequence which is crimpy, and technical.
Figure out how to gain the sloping diagonal rail and continue up the face to a large pocket. The move to the lip is the crux of "The Black Stuff" and seems way hard for V1.
Anyways, this problem, aside from the no landing for the first quarter of the problem, is excellent. Technical, balancy, powerful and delicate climbing on a near vertical face.
Possibly one of the most underrated and seldom done lines in this boulder field.
Location
This problem is a low start into "The Black Stuff". It is found by walking through the corridor containing "French Press".
This climb is actually on the boulder that forms the giant arching chossy overhang in the Misery Cave. Head North out of the Cave and this problem starts above your head at the base of the suspended face.



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