Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches
GPS: 34.85796, -111.73265
FA: Matt Childers and Ty Mack 2003
Page Views: 388 total · 10/month
Shared By: harrison t on Nov 3, 2022
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

An enjoyable route hosting perplexing corner work sprinkled amongst 300 feet of glorious finger crack. Originally given .13a by the FA team although LH feels like a substantial step up from Shangri-La(12+) and every other .13a. The movement is very good, but I feel it warrants two stars as the rock is quite soft in places and given the new wave of 3-4 star multi pitching in the area.

P1: A rough warm up. Ramble up soft, somewhat loose stone to get established at the base of the large corner. After executing a tough boulder into the corner continue through a couple wide sections and a few more punchy bits. There is a section that feels dicey as you're hanging off what looks like mud plastered onto the wall while placing micro cams. Maybe skip a few meals before pulling too hard on these holds.  5.12+ ~110'

P2: A punchy bit off the anchor gains a diving board feature below a tight finger crack gradually opening to baggy fingers and a stance at the base of the crux. A very tricky and powerful two bolt boulder problem with a desperate finish will grant you a massive lounging ledge. 5.13- ~100'  

P3: Banger fingers for not long enough to a short powerful section stepping left liebacking a flake. We thought this was the best pitch of the route, maybe because it has the best rock. Given 5.12+ by the FA team, but felt it was closer to 5.12-. ~100'

p4: A shorter mixed pitch though ok rock. 5.11.

Rappel the route

*If remembering right the crux goes into the sun around 1pm
 

Location Suggest change

The massive right facing corner just left of Shangri-La. 

Protection Suggest change

Triple micro -.75. single #1-3.

 

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