| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 45.92024, -110.97942 |
| FA: | Ethan Jeannette, Alex Glenn September 2022 |
| Page Views: | 452 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Ethan Jeannette on Sep 26, 2022 |
| Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
Description
A fun 3 pitch route up the South-East face of Arrowhead peak. This rock is much friendlier and less sharp than the darker gray surrounding limestone and is full of interesting fossils and shells. Be careful of loose rock and be mindful of anchor locations to protect your follower from inevitable rock fall. It can be helpful to set a belay on one of the ledges before beginning the route as there is no great flat belay spot.
Pitch 1: 210' Start at a few ledges that get you into an "open book" feature with gray rock to the right and a ramp on the left. The crux of this pitch is shortly after you start and after pulling through a steep section you'll be met with a large crack in the middle of the "book" this can be wet depending on snow in the area but protects well with large cams. Continue up this feature staying near the crack for gear but using the face for holds. Move up and right at a slight ledge of more reddish rock, be careful of loose death blocks here. Follow this crack system, going by a large pod where you can put your blue big bro if ya got one! Set a belay at the slight arete once you can see what looks to be the summit (it's not). The right side has better cracks but be sure save plenty of small cams for this anchor as the rock isn't amazing.
Pitch 2: 200' Let your buddy that was really excited to join and wanted some thrill lead this pitch. It's exciting to say the least. This pitch contains the most route-finding and the most loose rock. Start up the gully above your belay, having the P1 anchor on the right of the slight arete side keeps your belayer out of the way of falling rock. You'll find two cracks, a hand crack to the left and a corner on the right, go up whichever you choose. There's a very loose ledge above these cracks, above this ledge are many deceiving blocks that seem solid but be sure to test them before pulling on them. There's another spot for your blue bro so you'll almost be happy you brought it. Move right below the ridge then go up to gain the ridge, this is a loose section and you can likely go either straight up or right then up. Build an anchor using a slung horn and small cams.
Pitch 3: 100' Follow the gully up with no pro but plenty of loose rock. 5.0 climbing, till you reach a steep face. This takes great gear and is the crux, 5.7 for a single move. Pull through the steep face, be mindful of what you pull on both my partner and I sent large amounts of rock down at the base of this move. After the crux follow the arete up and through one last steep crack to the summit. There's not much to belay off but there is a large solid block that can be slung past the human made rock stack. Haul up your second and hope they don't fall.
Walk off to the west and gain the ridge trail.
Keep an eye out for the snot rockets that gave the route its name. Most of them wound up off route, don't worry.
Location
The start of the route is found by ascending the scree field just uphill from where Arrowhead extends into the bowl. Go past the first gray limestone wall with lots of trees on it and up to a series of small ledges that continue up into a large corner. Set an anchor for your belayer and to help rack up on one of these ledges then begin, following the ledges and one small steep section to get into the corner.
Protection
70m rope is helpful in getting to a good anchor spot for P1 and P2 but I'm sure you could figure it out with a 60m. All anchors are gear anchors, bring a rack from .2-4 with doubles from .4-2 and if you have them a 5 and 6 are very helpful. We did the route with only up to a 5, there are spots for a 6 but it's not necessary if you're comfortable running out 5.6 slightly. A #1 and 2 can be used for the anchor at the base of the route, bringing extras for that purpose wouldn't hurt. Definitely bring a helmet



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