The Offset Nut-cracker
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m)|
|Page Views:||75 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Trevor S on Aug 4, 2022|
|Admins:||Kris Gorny, K Ice|
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This is a fun and sustained short route. Pump your way up through the right leaning finger sized crack. There are a variety of ring locks, bone locks, side pulls and chockstones in the crack. Work right at the end of the crack for an easier finish or head straight up for the direct finish with a gaston/ sloper.
Head past the mini-cliffs toward the main wall. The route is the right-most crack on the main wall at Lookout Mountain.
Make an anchor at the top using a monolithic boulder and a crack below which takes cams or hexes in the size of #2 and #3 C4 or use the trees up top and extend with webbing or static rope. For leading, it takes the whole set of DMM offset nuts exceptionally well or lace it up with small cams.
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