Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
GPS: 38.8588, -105.03525
FA: Mark Hesse, Dan Mclure, Billy Westbay, 1972
Page Views: 1,351 total · 31/month
Shared By: Giles Eperon on Jul 18, 2022
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Arching Jams has stellar and very continuous crack climbing and laybacking on excellent granite.

P1. Climb an initially wide corner, and belay at the base of the obvious hand crack. Some appear to belay somewhat higher, by starting up the crack until it steepens, 5.8+, 75 feet.

P2. Fire up the splitter, thin hands crack up the first 'arch' up and over two pumpy bulges, then move left as the crack continues and narrows past a small, dying tree. Belay above the tree off to the left of the main crack system, 5.10-, 160-180 feet.

P3. Continue up the crack as it widens, to a short squeezy section, then layback the 4" crack to a corner (warning, this can be wet even in mid- season!). Head up the corner then straight left on a perfect hand jam traverse, belay on a ledge, 5.10c, 180 feet.
If this pitch is wet, it's possible to escape left from the p2 belay to join 'Don't think twice' (5.9). 

P4. Climb easier cracks straight up and left to the top. It can be 5.6 with correct route finding, but we did something more 5.8-5.9ish, 100 feet.

Walk back to your packs which you hopefully left at the top.

Location Suggest change

It is on the Pericle.

Protection Suggest change

A singles rack #0.2 to #4, with doubles in #0.75, triples of #3, and quadruples in #1 and #2.

Photos

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