Skunk Scat

Locate the scat emerging from the recesses of a series of broken shelves just left of the splitter and start ascending here. Once standing on the highest shelf, traverse right aiming for a vertical loaf of a lighter shade protruding from the black streak. Reach for a sloper on the right adjacent to a crimp for the left several feet above. Traverse left, utilizing various angles of grip with the left hand in a prominent hole along the splitter, while reaching above in the splitter with the right hand to end the traverse with good feet on a brightly shaded shelf. Ascend and match hands on the obvious large ledge above - shake out arms. Cross over with the left hand, reaching about a foot higher for a narrow lip of white rock with excellent texture. Begin a rightward traverse under the roof by reaching about 5 feet to the right to squeeze a pinch hold of dark rock. From this spread eagle stance, reach high and several feet to the right with the left hand for a narrow notch with a thin crimp and thumb groove underneath. Bump right hand slightly up and out to a good hold on the outward edge of the roof. Ascend several finger ledges vertically spaced about 8 inches apart, while securing a right heel hook in the protruding spike of rock off to the right. Find solid footing for the left on the main wall below the roof, from which to initiate a kick off propelling a make-or-break dynamic high left reach to an obvious extended lip about 3 feet higher. Establish feet on the head wall and ascend with comparatively less difficulty to a rewarding top out at the 2 bolt anchor above.

Note: Belay halfway up the hill east of the route from a comfortable stance accessed by skirting around a pruned yucca. Look for a Lost Arrow here which the belayer can supplement with a one inch cam in the horizontal crack just above the piton. Belaying here will ensure clean falls (and less importantly afford a better view, saving the belayer’s neck); otherwise the climber will swing repeatedly into the belay line, risking injury and dislodging the belayer from the insecure stance directly below the wall.

Cautionary Note: Please be careful with the heel hook feature. This protruding spike has proved reliably solid for taking a huge load off the arms through a crucial crux - though we’ve taken a care not to test this feature beyond the force necessary to gain the headwall, in hope of preserving it for future experience.

Start beneath the splitter at the east end of the east flank wall. Look for the scat .... you can't miss it.

2 bolt anchor