The Long Haul

The Long Haul, 5.10- mixed, ~130m, FA: Yann Troutet, Chantal Guillemette, Geneviève Pomerleau. June 2022.

Finding its way up the tallest part of Pulpit Rock, this route first hugs the edge of the gully that splits the lower half of Pulpit Rock, then tackles the steepest part of the headwall. Start where the approach trail skirts the toe of Pulpit Rock. All pitches are mixed; gear sizes up to 3 inches. Small cams and extendable quickdraws are useful. All belays have twin rappel ring-bolts. Note: the first four pitches can be climbed in two ropelengths.

P1: Start right off the trail at the toe of the cliff. Follow a thin crack (gear) through low angle rolls, to the bolt-protected slab and a belay ledge. 5.5 ~28m

P2: Climb up the broken arête, into a niche. Pull out right (bolt), to a short corner and anchors. Belay on a small flat perch. 5.7 ~17m

P3: Pull onto the large ledge. Hand-traverse left into the obvious corner system. Rock fins and shallow corners lead up to a small ledge and anchors. 5.7 ~20m

P4: Step left and follow the obvious left-slanting seams through the slab, to a huge sloping ledge and anchors. 5.8 ~20m

P5: Hike up some steps, to the back of the large corner. Pull up, then balance onto the steep left face of the corner, clipping 3 bolts. Continue up a series of corners and splitter cracks, to a belay ledge off to the right. 5.10- ~ 25m

P6: Continue up the obvious weakness, to the large sloping ledge. High-step into the right-facing corner (bolt). Dance up the steep terrain above, past two more bolts, emerging just below the onlooking hikers. Belay at a two bolt anchors. 5.10- ~ 25m

Descent: can be done by rappelling down the route, but walking off is recommended.

Start where the approach trail skirts the toe of Pulpit Rock.

All pitches are mixed; gear sizes up to 3 inches. Bolted belays.