Zion Train

A varied line which reminded me of a Zion adventure outing (no reference to Marley here) on a clean panel just right (up-canyon) of the wide slot of Jamaican Bobsled Team. It gets sun earlier that some others on this aspect, as it is more west-facing and you don't get to hide in any sheltering corner systems; get an early start if it's hot out to try to maximize shade! 

P1- Shared first pitch of JBT, which is pretty mediocre climbing and could be skipped if you don't want to climb the full wall and want to get on the goods right away. It isn't too bad though, and adds to the adventure for sure. Climb the chimney with some soft rock to a cruxy bit of fingers/tight-hands in a flare to a rubbly ledge corridor. The belay anchor for the 2nd pitch is across the corridor and on a slightly higher ledge (no rap chains); it's best to transfer over after you bring your second up. .10-, 115'

P2- Boulder up edges past a bolt to a rad, hanging splitter system with mostly fingers-hands and a wider pod cruxy spot. Finish up wild rippled fins past a few bolts to a belay shelf. .11+, 115'

P3- Step right into a tenuous fingercrack splitter with some slightly fiddly gear (can be scoped on rappel if you're inclined), that leads to easier climbing to a final, tricky headwall and high ledges. The belay anchor (no chains) is on a good ledge up and right of the rappel anchor (chains) on the prow at the climber's left side of the same ledge. .11, 100' 

P4- Sport interlude connector pitch...a bit silly, but offers the best climbing to connect to the higher terrace and the upper crack system. Tightly bolted as you're traversing above a ledge the whole time. A juggy flake layback leads to a tiptoe traverse and a short slab. .10, 60'

*** The brushy terrace here is a pleasant shade reprieve if you're cooking in the sun like we were when we did this. Can leave some snacks/water here on the way down.***

P5- A fistcrack splitter leads to a slick chimney (with a bolt or 2), some handcrack in a corner leads to more chimney. A good blue-collar pitch for those that appreciate wide climbing. .10, 100'

P6- Step left and surmount bulbous loafs to a patina swath past a few bolts, and then ramble up and slightly left on slabby features with horizontal pro options. A summit pitch for sure, which made the best attempt to stick to the best climbing available! .10, 80' 

Locate the top of the route about 100' or less to the left (southwest) of the top-out of Enter Sandman (which has the fixed hand-line down to the summit anchor). Zion Train has an easily accessible 2 bolt anchor with long chains right on the lip of the rim. 

Rappel the route (6 raps with a single 70m), paying attention to the following details:

On the 3rd rappel (down P4), traverse the belay ledge to an anchor with chain at the far left end, don't stop at the belay anchor without chain. This is an awkward, angling rappel and likely will require some directionals clipped for the first person down. 

On the 5th rappel (down P2) clip a draw to the lowest bolt of the 3 in the upper fin section to help run the rope out of the crack, which can pinch it when you're trying to pull. Also, go to the anchor atop P1 of JBT, with chains. 

In BD C4 sizes:
(1X) .2
(2X) red C3-#4
(1X) #5
8-10 draws/slings
(1X) 70 m rope