Type: Trad, Alpine, 3000 ft (909 m), 20 pitches
GPS: -49.27006, -73.0412
FA: Jay Smith and Steve Gerberding (USA), 25-28/1/1992.
Page Views: 658 total · 14/month
Shared By: Tyler Karow on Apr 14, 2022
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description Suggest change

The south face of Poincenot is a beautiful shear big wall that is reminiscent of El Cap perhaps more than any other wall of the 7 summits. Judgement day climbs through the middle of the southeast face linking high quality splitter cracks up a steep headwall before merging into the Fonrouge-Rosasco and Whillans-Cochrane to the summit. The route contains high quality rock and amazing steep freeclimbing up splitter cracks. The first third of the route is lower angle and often contains icy cracks and chimney systems. The next third contains the money pitches and is steep and typically dry. The final 300 meters are low angle and can be quite snowy. We got away without bringing crampons or an ice axe but we also climbed it during a dry year. Rap the route to descend. See Rolo’s book for the topo.

Location Suggest change

Southwest Face of Poincenot

Protection Suggest change

Triples from .2 to #1, doubles from #2 to #4, one #5, set of nuts, two 60 meter ropes

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