What's Golden

A unique climb for Mount Lemmon as it is currently the only multi-pitch sport route of its grade, length, and difficulty that's accessible without driving most of the way up the mountain.

Three pitches of increasing difficulty leads to the summit of a large ridge and great views of the Rincon mountains. 

Pitch 1: 5.7, 7 bolts. Climb past big holds to a ledge with another short and slightly more challenging face above it, followed by low-5th class to a large ledge and two-bolt anchor. Rappel straight down from here (not following the bolts) when the time comes.

Pitch 2: 5.7, 6 bolts. A high first bolt leads to a more sustained 70 degree face and another good belay ledge. Possible to link with the first pitch, but not recommended to link with the second due to rope drag and communication.

Pitch 3: 5.9, 9 bolts. The most exciting (and longest) pitch by far! Climb up and right past cracks and blocks to a large ledge, look over the other side, and then take on the slightly overhanging headwall. Gain a ledge, and climb past a couple of more bolts in a dihedral. Once the climbing becomes less sustained, a final challenging move (crux of the route?) leads to the upper slab and a two bolt anchor on the summit. Rappel straight down from here (not following the bolts).

Descent: rappel straight down from each anchor with a 70m rope. A 60 might work but is not yet verified. Many possibilities exist to walk off but none are recommended.

Namesake: Jurassic 5

PLEASE READ THIS CLOSELY, LOOK AT THE PHOTOS BELOW, AND/OR THE PHOTOS/DESCRIPTIONS FOR THE OTHER AREAS OF THE COLOSSEUM. Numerous parties have erroneously, inefficiently, and frustratingly hiked all the way up to the Pantheon and other areas at the Colosseum looking for this route, only to leave frustrated or hike all the way back down. There are adequate photos and descriptions of the parking, the walls, etc under this route and Golden Wall to help avoid this confusion for your hiking and climbing pleasure.
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The first climb accessed from the approach, on the Southeast face of the larger of the two walls. A two-bolt ground anchor marks the base (this was used to develop the first pitch solo). While the approach is short and the climb is visible from the road, be careful to take the path of least resistance or else your day might be ruined. It is easy to lose the trail and to find yourself on a steep and sharply vegetated desert hillside. 

The cairned path goes right out of the drainage (about 50 feet from the road) and then switchbacks up the hillside. Nearing the cliff, there is a band of rock that you need to get on top of to access the base. This is easiest if you follow the rock around to the right (keeping it on your left) and then scramble up 3rd/4th class ledges to the base. It should only take about 20 minutes if you are careful, and should be easier on the way down. If you don’t see the cairns try again. 

Wear decent hiking shoes. Trekking poles can be useful. 

A dozen draws plus a couple more if linking pitches.