5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||177 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Christopher David on Feb 6, 2022|
|Admins:||adrian montano, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen|
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This is a 2 1/2 star route each pitch has some fun climbing and a defined crux. This can be a good way to add some pitches to your day climbing the wasteland or you can continue up to the top of entrance dome. Climb the right arete of the alcove on exit dome. This alcove breaks the south face from the west face of exit dome. From the ground you can spot a bolt about mid-way on the arete.
Pitch one: We start at the base of some Boulder with a wide-ish crack, past a dyke band as it turns vertical. Clip two bolts and pass a small roof on gear. Then a bit of runout slab to a two bolt anchor. 150 ft more or less 5.8.
Pitch two: In the book (Tanya’s) it shows the route going through the waterstreak. From the anchors I couldn’t see any gear that would be available going through the waterstreak and couldn’t find any bolts. So I followed the gear up and left through a crack with a bulge, which was some good fun and probably harder then the listed grade in the book… like 5.9. Pass another bulge and then a step over right to some boulders where you can set up an anchor before it domes-out.
To get off we followed the dome back a bit and to the west face and found a tat anchor for the big sleep. I left some wedding and a locker so we could double rope (70’s) rap to the ground. One rap