Electric Puppy Machine

Electric Puppy Machine (5.10d)

This area classic is just one in a handful of other stellar routes on the Main Wall, which climbs impeccable granite in a beautiful setting. Put up by Kernville local Mark “Marco” Krebs and Herb Laeger, ‘Electric Puppy Machine’ is one plum that needs plucking! And the name? Well, as the story goes, Marco brought his wolf pup Kenai the day of the first ascent. While he was working on the second pitch, Herb called up, “Hey, I think your dog is pregnant.” In reply, while a motorcycle battery was being hauled up to power the drill, Marco shouted down “No she’s not!”. It was then when the battery came up between his legs, the leads shorted. This set off a series of sparks and Marco spilling a loud laundry list of expletives. This in turn set off Kenai into several mournful howls. And the name was hatched!  **NOTE** - Rumor has been confirmed that Kern River Brewing Company of Kernville has brewed an Imperial Stout aged in bourbon barrels in honor of Mark Krebs and his legacy. The name of the brew? You guessed it! To be released November 2022.

Pitch #1:

Start in a shallow right facing corner, below a large overhang. Once the corner ends, climbing the face to a ledge with a manzanita bush. From the bush, climb up to a bulge and then to a small flake (1st pitch crux). Pull up and left above the flake to larger holds underneath a large roof. Clip a bolt (use long sling here) and traverse out right onto good foothold approximately 15 feet. Climb to a small roof, surmounting it using good face holds above and eventually to a 2-bolt belay. (90’, 5.10a)

Pitch #2:

Get ready to get your thin edging and crimping skills on! This pitch is fairly sustain. Climb up and slightly left on thin face holds and overcome a series of mantles on the way up. Continue to a small overhang, protecting it with #2 and #3 TCU’s (use runners). Traverse out left and up to a bolt. Keep climbing out left and up on thin holds. Climb up then back right to a crack. Follow the crack to a 2-bolt belay. (150’, 5.10d)

Pitch #3:

Climb up a shallow corner for a short distance then out onto small but manageable holds to a 2-bolt belay. (70’, 5.10a)

This route starts at a shallow right facing corner, 20' left of 'Welcome To Bald Eagle' on the Main Wall.

- (2) 70 meter rope (to facilitate the rappels)

- 10-12 quickdraw, to include several runners

- Cams to 1"