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Northeast Cracks aka “Compromise”
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in Cockscomb
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East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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East Face of South Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Least Resistance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Northeast Cracks aka “Compromise” T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Spiral Staircase T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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West Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 180 ft (55 m), Grade II |
| GPS: | 37.83562, -119.3847 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 795 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Toffey on Nov 12, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This route begins by climbing up the series of slabs on the northeast face directly under a large chimney. Once just below the easier looking chimney, traverse up and left across steepening darker slabs to a 5.7 handcrack near the wall on the southside of the steepening gully. Climb this up to the ledge directly below the west summit. From here climb the 5.7/5.8 offwidth up to a hand traverse left(east) into the notch between the two summits. The hand traverse can be protected with a BD#3. A giant horn on the east side of the west summit tower can be slung to bring up your second. Downclimb the west summit and climb unprotected 4th class up to the east true summit from here.
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