Moloch

A solid blue collar affair that has some great crack climbing interspersed with easier sandy chimneys. A easier intro to Insomnia if it is clean, but will require annual cleaning maintenance/traffic as loose sand funnels down the singular crack feature.    

3 stars for Sedona 1980’s era but only 2 stars in Insomnia. 

P1   5.11-   Traverse left 30 feet or so past bolt into the flare feature, climbing past hands and fists, through fingers and hands to the roof. Romp hero hands up to the Moloch, a small sandy ledge that will keep this pitch eternally sandy. Easy chimney on poorer rock to the massive ledge. 

P2 5.11 Squirm out the overhanging OW into the relative ease of twin cracks finishing with a fun chimney to a nice ledge. 

P3 5.10+  Layback the steep wide crack with great holds though a changing corners. Easier jamming into another chimney and flop into the mondo terrace. 

P4 5.9  Stem the funky wide slot then mantle into the super low angled slab and walk to the top. 

Goes into the sun in early afternoon but P2, P3 belays stay in the shade all day.

Can leave the #5 and 6 at the top of pitch 1 while rapping.

From the top of Valhalla (Identified by glue in bolts at the top anchor), traverse south 100 feet or so to a small dead pine next to a larger live pinewith 2 tops. Rap route with a 70m. Rap the low angle slab for 50 feet then swing North down to the huge terrace. Rap P3 & P2, swinging or clipping directional as they both have overhanging starts. Brushing the inside of the crack would be in your best interest as it will get sandy every year. From the top of pitch 1, rap south down the face to an off route station then down to the dirt ledge with one bolt at the start of the route. See topo.

1x .2,.3  2x.4-#4, 1x #5,6. 5 draws and 6 runners.