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Routes in Lower Psychoactive
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Drama Queen S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Greenie Invasion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Heathen S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hole Patrol S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left Arête S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Lil Smookie Does Super Mama S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pocket Puzzle S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Psych S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Star Fucker S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Strangely Compelled S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tumbleweed S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 44.0812, -107.30582 |
| FA: | Alli Rainey 2003 |
| Page Views: | 384 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | JANGEL J on May 31, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Crux right off the ground, so you may want a stick clip. Also doable to clip first from the block on the left if you step off it. Scary slab climbing to second bolt which gradually gets easier as the climb gets less steep. Climb to a ledge in less than ideal dirty holds and shortly after get the anchor.
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