All Locations > N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Eagle Rock > Upper Tier

Useless #8

Name: Useless #8
Rating: 3.0

5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Upper Tier

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Boy Named Trad T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Alcoa Karma V0 4
	Beerchuckers Layback T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Bittersweet Retreat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Black Thumb V0-1 4+
	Doctor's Orders T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Double Jam V0-1 4+
	Eagle Has Landed, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Golden Hour V2 5+
	Hook Pop, Body Drop And The Biting Flies T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Little Politician V1 5
	Passage V1-2 5
	Rachel's Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Roof Traverse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Scratch the Itch V1 5
	Shiloh S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Side Trip V0 4
	Side Trip extension V1 5
	Sign, The V0 4
	Spangled Fritillary T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Too Short to Start T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Useless #8 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
GPS:	35.60369, -79.27729
FA:	An drew, Angela Modzelewski, May 2021
Page Views:	671 total · 11/month
Shared By:	An drew on May 24, 2021
Admins:	Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Parking lot closed Details

carolinaclimbers.org/conten…

Description

Step 1: Place the #8.

Step 2: Sling it long to reduce rope drag & so it won't keep you off the ground...

THEN scramble inside the awkward crack, gain a side pull and proceed to shred skin and spirit as you lasciviously grind your way up the off width (hint: Do Kata Hazushi Ichi). The crux is low and protects extremely well. Continue up another 30ish feet to a dead tree and head left to the anchors for Hook Pop, Body Drop And The Biting Flies. There is a nice ledge to stand on to soak in your success & the view before you make the last move to the anchors.

Special Thanks to Angela, Stephan, Julia, & Christy for there support in this historic First Ascent!

Location

The off width crack to the right of "Hook Pop, Body Drop And The Biting Flies" and to the left of "Spangled Fritillary".

Protection

Option 1: Can be done safely with a standard single rack up to #5. Option 2: If you LOVE BIG cams Single Rack + #4,#5,#6,#8. Shares double bolted anchors with rap rings with Hook Pop, Body Drop And The Biting Flies.