Danish Direct

Easily visible from US Highway 50 in the Town of Coaldale, Danish Direct starts about 2.5 miles from the parking area at the Hayden Creek Campground.

Close to 1000 meters, this route ascends the obvious, direct couloir to the summit on a very aesthetic line featuring moderate to steep snow and a short section of moderate mixed climbing.  At about 300 meters (984 feet) below the summit, the route takes an obvious right branch onto steeper terrain leading directly below the summit. This crux section features (2) M1-M2 rock bands (about 15 meters total) guarded by 65 degree slopes above and below. A fall here could have high consequences.  After exiting the couloir, the final short pitch to the summit relaxes to about 30 degrees but may hold deeper snow than the couloir proper.

The entire route from the car park is 1346 meters (4415 feet) elevation gain over 3.6 miles. The couloir slope angle averages 45 degrees with several pitches of 60-65 degrees steep snow. The best time to climb this route is mid-April to mid-May after avalanche conditions have stabilized and depending on snow cover. Plan on 6-9 hour to summit.

The descent route is via the unnamed and less steep couloir to the east (visible in the first picture), which will require some self belayed down climbing, or via the south ridge to Hayden Pass Road as a plan B escape or rescue strategy.

From your parking spot at Hayden Creek Campground, follow the middle prong of Hayden Creek on a south-southwest bearing for approximately 2 miles. The forest here is moderately dense, particularly near the stream, so it is best to approach on the east side of the drainage. For the last 1/2 mile, make a bearing about due southwest up a steep slope to the base of the couloir. This approach is all off trail, so it is best to use a GPS app to avoid ending up in the wrong location to start the climb.

Experienced snow climbers can do this route unprotected, otherwise bring a rope, snow pickets, and a small alpine rack.