All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > San Juan County > Lockhart Basin > Carousel Butte

Piggy Pincher

Name: Piggy Pincher
Rating: 3.0

5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British

Routes in Carousel Butte

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	Born to me, Cassidy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1
	Piggy Pincher T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

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Type:	Trad, 310 ft (94 m), 3 pitches
GPS:	38.43218, -109.65365
FA:	Wolfe, Montoya
Page Views:	565 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Furthermore on Mar 21, 2021
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.

Description

If you're over 170 lbs, this route might be impossible! You're warned! Please, don't get Piggy Pinched. This route climbs the corner system just left of the obvious laser-cut, lightning bolt splitter crack (already climbed, no further known information; looks phenomenal!).

Pitch 1: Begin up a tight hand crack to a ledge. Then finesse through a short, wide section to another ledge. Turn right and enter a chimney. A fun hand crack in the chimney leads to a nice belay stance at a squarish notch. 5.10, 105 feet.

Pitch 2: Stem or climb out of the square notch to a thought-provoking finger sequence. Climb upward through a widening crack. Either OW battle or stem the widest section. Good pods make the length of this pitch barely tolerable. Finish up a smooth, surprisingly tricky wide section into a neat cave. This pitch is a fantastic, long blue-collar pitch. 5.11, 160 feet.

Pitch 3: Ramble up the cave and squeeze through a crack in the ceiling of the cave. Super fun! I'm 155 lbs with and it was fairly tight. It MIGHT be possible to continue through the cave latterly and crawl through a ratshit-filled tube and exit in the middle of the mesa. I would venture a person over 200lbs probably wouldn't make that crawl. 5.9, 40 feet.

Use a double rope rappel from the top of the laser-cut crack (2 pins) to a ledge. These pins are located southwest (~50 feet) from the top of Piggy Pincher. A single 70M rope rappel from the ledge (anchored via large block) then reaches the ground.