Type: Boulder, 10 ft (3 m)
GPS: 37.23261, -122.09284
FA: Barry Bates
Page Views: 998 total · 16/month
Shared By: Scott Harris on Jan 23, 2021
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK CLOSURES; The sandstone around Castle Rock is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Start left hand in the tall scoop feature and right hand low in an obvious hold. Work your way up the right Arete and then left to go straight over the giant slopey top with a couple of small, interesting holds.

What looks like a small boulder turns into 7 or so pretty good moves on some unique features and the top out is a bit exciting/desperate.  

Other info: I ran into this boulder randomly in early 2021 looking for another route. The face feature looked cool, so kept cleaning, removing loose rock, trying things, and eventually this seemed like the most logical line with the most obvious start holds.

After sending and sharing (thinking maybe a FA), I was told that this boulder was first cleaned and climbed by Barry Bates 15+ years ago but never named. As far as I know, at least he, Jeremy Meigs, and Justin Ridgely climbed a line on this boulder very similar to this (likely the same one but no pics/videos). Didn’t get any other details about the original send(s), but got the second hand “ok”, for what that’s worth, to reclaim this - happy to change info though as needed. Seems it hadn’t been climbed in 10+ years based on info I got - but that it was a good one that should be brought back.

Give it a try while it’s clean! 

Location Suggest change

Keep walking downhill past Asian invasion a minute or so in the gulley, when possible, turn left up the hill. At the top of the hill (just 50 yards or so) start making your way down until you see the top of the boulder. 

Protection Suggest change

Flat landing. 1 pad is fine.

Photos

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