Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, 5500 ft (1667 m)
FA: August Franzen and Taylor Brown, Nov 2020
Page Views: 295 total · 17/month
Shared By: Taylor-B. on Dec 15, 2020
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

This route is divided into 2 sections. The lower section is 2,500ft of rambling WI2-3 and has most likely been climbed before. The second part of the climb goes up the east face to the summit. It is best to climb this route in early season when the avalanche danger is low. 

This is a great roadside alpine climb and the easy grade allows a competent party to move fast.  

From the pipeline road at about 41.5 mile park and bushwhack for 10 minutes to reach the large alluvial fan and hike up with ease to the base of the large ice flow. The ice flow is huge! Most of the ice is WI2-3, with a few sections that would merit a rope. Halfway up there is a fork in the ice; take the climbers left flow and continue to brushline. 

Continue up into the east basin of 3 Pigs and the east face will start to loom over you. You can't see the east face from the road. Carefully pick your way up the large avi prone slopes aiming for a couloir on the climbers right. To avoid the snow loaded couloir climb the moderate mixed terrain to the right to gain the ridge. Continue up the ridge climbing 3rd to low 5th class mixed terrain. 

To descend retrace your ascent route down the east face and once above the ice pitches veer skiers right (south) and bushwhack back to the road. 

Location

At mile maker 41.5 turn off and park down the pipeline road. 

Protection

Ice screws and a light rock rack

Photos

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