Type: Boulder, 15 ft (5 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 272 total · 20/month
Shared By: Ben Schaller on Dec 3, 2020
Admins: James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This was likely done decades ago, but I'm adding it here, because it's too good to be passed up! PLEASE, PLEASE let me know if anyone has any existing info on it...calling this area the Brain Boulder (actually just an outcropping of the cliff line, à la Ship's Prow) because of the crazy twisting rock on the underside of the roof.

Beta: this is the middle line that goes straight up the overhanging dihedral. Start on obvious jugs, make a left hand move to a sloppy pinch, and walk your feet above your head to place a bomber left kneebar. Slap your way up the dihedral (tread lightly on the hollow sounding right crimp) adjusting your kneebar as needed until you can pinch the right arete and find crimps to your left. One more long reach and you're there...just keep it together during the tall topout! I'm just gonna say it: THIS MIGHT BE THE FINEST KNEEBAR AROUND ALL OF HORSETOOTH!! GET ON IT!

Videos:

Location

It is on Brain Boulder (GPS coordinates: 40°35'11.5"N 105°09'44.4"W) at the Land of the Overhangs (~200' south of Bachar Lunge).

Protection

3~4 pads and a spotter to feel comfortable!

Photos

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