Black Gold

This new route climbs the black streak to the left of Hemet Belle and the right of Gallows.  It starts with the first three bolts of Hemet Belle then continues directly up the black water streak for another sixty feet of steep climbing instead of traversing right.  The crux comes at the second bolt where you must remain on the face instead of going left up the crack which would take you onto Gallows.  Basically the bush in the crack and everything left of it is considered off route.  Above the crux there is a crucial 1/2" (BD .4) cam placement in a horizontal. One more bolt of challenging climbing leads you to better holds above which take you to the anchors which are shared with Gallows, Hemet Belle, Ore Chute and Masonic Order. This one has hard, high quality movement on good rock but loses a star due to the somewhat contrived position of the crux next to Gallows. 2.5 out of 4.

Start as for Hemet Belle, clipping the first three bolts on that route before continuing straight up.  You can place a cam or two before the first bolt (.4" to .75") then there is a .5" cam placement above the crux and at the top there are spots for a small cam (.4") and a larger cam (1"). 

6 bolts, 2 .4" cams (BD .3), 2 .5" cams (BD .4), 1 .75" cam (BD .5) and 1 1" cam. (BD .75 or 1)