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> Smithfield Dry Canyon
Cache Valley Crack
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Smithfield Dry Canyon
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Bee True T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Bizarre Garb T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bloom and Breathe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cache Valley Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Choss Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Diabetics Are Sweet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fall of Mann, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Parallelogram T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 41.832, -111.76858 |
| FA: | Patrick Campana, 10/31/2020 |
| Page Views: | 535 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Patrick Campana on Oct 31, 2020 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Description
- Thee raddest crack climb in Cache Valley (so marginally decent). Enticing looking buttress with a splitter crack starting halfway up it. The "Cache Valley Crack" curves slightly to the right and tops out right of a small roof. The bottom of the climb is dirty looking face climbing, but it is actually solid and has decent protection. Gain the first ledge about 20 ft. up, place a "solid" piece in one of two nice cracks then shoot up to the second ledge and the start of the Cache Valley Crack. Shake out for a second and then start up the crack. The crack goes from tips (the crux) to a perfect hand crack (seriously fun stuff). Place your first piece of gear in the crack as high as you can. It would be pretty to easy to deck on the ledge if you blow it early on with the crack...so don't blow it! There are a few "hidden" face holds to the left of the crack early on that make this climb a 5.9+ rather than a harder 10. However, you never really move out of the crack when using these holds. This compares to a Little Cottonwood Canyon 5.9+ so ya it's probably a bit sandbagged if you're not from around these parts hehe.
Protection
Single rack to #3 is fine, set of nuts. Double #1's and #2's might be nice. I pounded in hex at the top of the route and backed it up with a nut a bit higher up. I rapped off it safe and sound but I recommend giving it a good look before you trust your life to it. Freeze thaw cycles loosen things up. If you don't want to use my fixed passive pro, a second #0.75 and #3 make a nice 3 piece anchor. Walk off is possible.
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