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Routes in Smithfield Dry Canyon

Bee True T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bizarre Garb T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bloom and Breathe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diabetics Are Sweet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Parallelogram T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 120 total · 3/month
Shared By: joslstap on Mar 11, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Start on some dirty, but easy 4th-5th class climbing for about 30-40 feet to gain the corner where the main fist crack starts. There is a large chockstone halfway up this first part that you can sling (found some webbing around it, which is why I don't claim the FA). This part is why I gave it the PG-13 rating. A fall is unlikely, but would be pretty bad as the rock can't accommodate a whole lot of protection. Once the ledge is gained use the finger/hand crack to bypass some bushes and gain the main fist crack. Follow the crack up and dodge the bees.
Top out just after the overhang in the crack. You could probably continue to the top of the cliffs from here, or you can leave some webbing and rap down (a 70 m will barely reach).

Location

North side of the canyon among the obvious cliffs. The crack is in a corner to the right of a blank looking face.

Protection

Standard rack, though the main crack is a fist size you can find places for a little everything. Double up on the #3 camalot for easy placements. I took two #4's as well, but only used one.

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