Northeast Buttress
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 1300 ft (394 m), 10 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.4577, -123.1851 |
| FA: | FA Basil Darling, 1913; FRA D. Culbert, D. McRae, 1968 |
| Page Views: | 1,443 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Weber on Aug 25, 2020 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
The East Lion is off-limits due to its location in the GVRD watershed.
Description
Take these grades with a grain of salt: we climbed it a day or two after heavy rain; we were never sure we were taking the best line, and often times we couldnt' find good pro
P1 (5.6) We climbed easy terrain with little pro for maybe 50m into a bush. There looked to be some better options around, but everything was soaked. I pretty much gingerly balanced my way into some bushes until the rope drag was too brutal to continue (I had two pieces in with half ropes...)
P2 (5.6) We climbed up a nice crest into a small roof, and bypassed it out right and built an anchor. 35m?
P3 (5.6) Continued up for 50m on nice rock. Again, little gear and wet in a lot of places. I eventually found a nice steep hand crack (muddy and soaked) and belayed on a very small tree with red tat
P4 (5.6) The wall above was slabby with no pro. Headed left then up to a tree, then straight up to another tree belay just below the talus (50m?)
4th class: We headed up the talus to a nice lunch spot on a bed of green
P5 (5.6) Walk up to the steep wall, and bypass it on the left. Head up very easy terrain. We actually got about 30m and then just had my belayer come up and I continued on for another 50 or so meters. The book (Rich Wheater's Vancouver Rock Climbing) says this pitch is 5.4, but I think I ended up doing the 5.4, bringing the belayer up without building an anchor, and then did the 5.6 in the book. I belayed off of a giant flake and backed it up using a big dead log :S
P6 (5.6) Head into the bushes right about where the wall steepens
P7 (?) This involved steep climbing up dirt and roots. How does one grade this?! I finally found rock and belayed on a ledge. Beautiful views (50m)
P8 (5.6) Go right (exposure!) and head up. Belayed on tree (30m)
p9 (5.6) Glorious exposure! Gingerly chimney then mantle onto a tower with loose giant blocks on top. Notice the scratch marks made by some fools who climbed this in the winter (Matteo? 2017?). Then head up the thin crest with rocks and trees. This was soo soo pretty. This was the best part of the whole day. Belay on tree (50m)
p10 Short scramble to summit!
Location
Park at Lion's Bay parking lot at end of Sunset Drive. Parking is $25 for 24hrs I think
Hike up and keep taking the right option at the forks. Once it opens up, spot the gunsight. Another 150m up the trail or so take a sharp left and into the talus. Get to the gunsight, downclimb, then gingerly make your way down the scree.
Then hike back up more scree to the bottom of the crest.



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