Type: Mixed, Ice, 125 ft (38 m)
FA: Dustin Martinez - February 2008
Page Views: 245 total · 11/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Aug 16, 2020
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Description

Hidden gem and the first ice climb on the way into Maple Canyon

Climb up the narrow slot gully and stomp out a belay in the snow at the shallow right facing corner on the left side of the gully with ice hopefully visible up high.

Start out on snowy and icy cobbles and pick a route on fairly reasonable foot and pick holds.  Clip four bolts en route to the thicker ice above.  Finish on a curtain of steep ice which gets easier near the top.

Anchor in rock at top of route.

Mind the rope length as a single 60m won't be long enough to safely descend the route.  A single 70m rope "might" work, but, take a set of twins/doubles or the like just in case.

Location

On the road into Maple, look for the narrow north facing gully at the first steep rock on the left (going up canyon).

The ice may or may not be visible from the road.  

Down canyon (toward civilization) and on the same side of the road as Rubber Cup Nausea.

Protection

Four lead bolts and a selection of thin ice gear especially short screws. If "in", the thicker ice at the top of the route should take 13 -17cm screws.

Photos

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