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Routes in Main Canyon Road Ice

Type: Mixed, Ice, 55 ft
FA: Jason Stevens and Jared Nielson 2001 (?)
Page Views: 360 total · 4/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Feb 10, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A nifty, low traffic area which is nice as a short route and some mixed practise on the cobbles.

Steep hanging narrow curtain at the bottom is probably the crux. Climb this for a body length or so, then, the flow narrows past another steep section. Goes more low angle in the middle then steep again before climbing up into the low angle bowl.

Apparently lead bolts on either side of the flow (3 bolts, give or take).

Nice for getting a few laps on from the TR anchor at the edge of the steepness on the climber's left.

Single rapide at the last lead bolt tied into an upper bolt with cord. Plan on supplementing this anchor in case the cord is shot, or, a single rapide for a rappel ain't your thing.

Location

Go up the main road, just past the Left Fork, campground, and prior to the Right Fork. Prior to the pullout and outhouse before the Right Fork. Climb is located on the west side of the road.

Located on the main road, just up a gully from the left side of the Low Standard Cave.

Route faces the road, and, the ice (if in) should be visible from the road, between the trees.

Rappel route.

Protection

There are a few lead bolts apparently on both sides of the ice fall, visible depending on how the ice has come in.

Take a selection of short to middlin' screws and a few quick draws for the bolts.

Anchor on the left (upper lead bolt tied into a top bolt at the edge of the steepness, or, climb up into the shallow bowl and look for a top anchor on the lower angle terrain).

Photos

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