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Routes in Cirque of the Moon
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Bo Mambo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Brokeback Mountain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Buffalo Crude T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Chicken Talk T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cowcatcher T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A5 |
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Forest Creatures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Holding Out for a Hero T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C1 |
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Last Resort, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Mansion, The TR V1-2 5 R |
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Mare Frigoris T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1 R |
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Martian Moonbase T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Moonquakes T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A1 X |
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Moonrise Kingdom T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c C1 |
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Pipeline T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Reginald's Roar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Space Ghost T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0 |
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Telstar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Two Left Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 6 pitches |
| GPS: | 42.75523, -109.13894 |
| FA: | FKA Lane Mathis & Dakota Walz 7/2020, Variations by Dave Nettle & Glen Poulsen 8/2020 |
| Page Views: | 894 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Dakota from North Dakota on Aug 3, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Description
This route sports a lot of fantastic face climbing on awesome rock. In a cosmic coincidence, much of this route was retro bolted mere weeks after the first ascent. When we climbed the route we did not leave any fixed gear behind and did many bold pitches of climbing. Including an 82m pitch that Lane Mathis managed with only a few pieces of marginal protection. Understandably, the second party had no idea we had been there.
Because we were chasing whatever pro we could our line was a bit wandery and very dangerous. The new variation pitches protected by lead bolts are likely the funnest path up the wall. Additionally all belays, save for pitch 5 are now bolted and the route can even be rappelled. We found a fixed nut on one of the many dihedrals that can be used to exit the mega ledge to the summit, so at least some of this was climbed even before the "first" first ascent.
The following beta is what I believe to be the best path up the wall, utilizing the new variation pitches (white lines on the updated topo).
P1. 5.9, 60m
Mostly super easy romping up very low angle terrain. Traverse right across at two bolts and a thin crack that is difficult to protect for leader and follower. Belay on the ledge at two bolts.
P2. 5.9, 40m
Climb straight up from the belay aiming for three bolts on a slab. Travers right to the mini roof and belay at two bolts under the tooth.
P3. 5.9PG, 40m
Climb up and left to a bolt under the tooth. Surmount the tooth and follow sporadic gear along incredible face climbing. Belay at another ledge on two bolts.
P4. 5.9, 55m
Trend up and left before climbing up the slab past two bolts near a small right facing overhang. Then cast off up and right aiming for the tip of the triangular nose. Two bolt belay.
P5. 5.8, 50m
Pull easy moves over the triangle to an awesome ramp of perfect rock. Gear belay on the mega ledge.
P6. 5.8, 25m
Many options to reach the rim from the mega ledge. We chose the nearest which was a great left facing corner about 30ft right of the belay. Climbing up the left trending flakes will lead to a rap station (one bolt, one nut) to rap the route.
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