Type: Sport, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jim Nelson & David Whitelaw (2019)
Page Views: 22,515 total · 452/month
Shared By: Grant Adams on Jun 20, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

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Description Suggest change

Bolted by Jim Nelson and David Whitelaw. Great, well-bolted climb on a classic climbing objective in a beautiful location. Views of Mt. Rainier on the way up and tops out to views of Glacier, Baker, Stuart, etc. 60 m rope and some draws are all you need. Included in "Classic Cascade Climbs: Select Routes in Washington State" by Jim Nelson, Tom Sjolseth, and David Whitelaw.

Ascent:

P1 (5.7): Scramble up to start climbing inside the corner and move left for face climbing with good hands. 6 bolts

P2 (5.8+): Fun face climbing with great holds. Shift left onto the top of the face. Follow a series of ledges along the top of the face eastward to the next belay. You may not be able to see the bolts until gaining each ledge. 13 bolts

P3 (5.7): Follow the bolts line up and left to the next belay. Easy, but slightly licheny 5.7 climbing. 4/5 bolts.

P4 (5.8): Follow the bolt line up to a small face. Traverse slightly right then up to the belay. 7 bolts

P5 (5.9+): The crux. Look left for a bolt to gain the ledge (watch out for a loose handhold) and traverse right along the top of it. Do some awkward moves up through an opening. Then move up to do some pumpy moves to get to the belay. Extend some of the draws to minimize rope drag. 9 bolts

P6 (5.6): Follow the bolt line for some easy climbing to the next belay. 5 bolts

P7: Easy scrambling. Look right to a left facing dihedral/block for the single bolt. Follow that until the summit. There is no bolted anchor on the summit. Depending on comfort could sling a block, put in some small cams (0.4 and 0.5 C4s), or some nuts to build an anchor on top. 1 bolt.

Descent:

Down climb to the top of P6 and rappel down, either 6 single-length rappels or 3 double-length. The final double-length will use the full length of 60m ropes, shortened ropes will leave you down-climbing. Alternatively, rappel the South Face.

Be careful throwing rocks down if there are parties below.

Some TRs on cascadeclimbers.com/forum/t…

Location Suggest change

Follow the normal ascent route to The Tooth and continue left shortly past the SW face until seeing a series of bolts going up a southward face on the west side of the tooth. Early season may require some scrambling to get to the climb because there is a moat between the snow and the wall.

Protection Suggest change

13 draws. Some alpine for extending to reduce rope drag.

Photos

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