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> Eastern Flank / Macho…
Dynamic Duo
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Routes in Eastern Flank / Macho Crap
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Bull and Bush T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crapola S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dynamic Duo S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Formicator T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Hummingbird S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Macho Crap S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Out There T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Pitch 2 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Redemption S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Solstice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Solstice Alternate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ticked Off T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 26 ft (8 m) |
| FA: | Adam Tutte '08 |
| Page Views: | 390 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Rhys Beaudry on Apr 12, 2020 |
| Admins: | Sean Godwin, Mandie Walls, John L, Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Description
A roped boulder problem on a big, steep roof!
Climb up and left (~2.5 m) on dodgy rock to get to the start of the climb, clipping your first 2 bolts from this stance. Leave your stance using mediocre holds to set yourself up for a monster V5 dead-point (climbing crux), and then figure out how to clip your 3rd bolt (clipping crux).
Then, this rig is just big dead point after big dead-poin after big...nope, just 2 more moves and you're effectively done, reaching up to clip one last bolt that probably no one has ever fallen on. The anchors aren't far above!
Sadly, this crux is very height dependent (call this the 180 cm height/wingspan grade). As this climb follows a seam in the roof, there may be alternative solutions for shorter climbers, but I could imagine adding a bonus letter grade or more!
If you can, pre-hang your draws. Long draw bolt 3 for sure to make clipping more reasonable, perhaps bolt 2 as well so you can reach it before lift off.
There is an old button head less than 2 m off the ground, do not clip this and do not start going straight up this. Near as I can figure, this is to aid in cleaning and can be used to help keep you out of the tick tree if you're being lowered.
Climb up and left (~2.5 m) on dodgy rock to get to the start of the climb, clipping your first 2 bolts from this stance. Leave your stance using mediocre holds to set yourself up for a monster V5 dead-point (climbing crux), and then figure out how to clip your 3rd bolt (clipping crux).
Then, this rig is just big dead point after big dead-poin after big...nope, just 2 more moves and you're effectively done, reaching up to clip one last bolt that probably no one has ever fallen on. The anchors aren't far above!
Sadly, this crux is very height dependent (call this the 180 cm height/wingspan grade). As this climb follows a seam in the roof, there may be alternative solutions for shorter climbers, but I could imagine adding a bonus letter grade or more!
If you can, pre-hang your draws. Long draw bolt 3 for sure to make clipping more reasonable, perhaps bolt 2 as well so you can reach it before lift off.
There is an old button head less than 2 m off the ground, do not clip this and do not start going straight up this. Near as I can figure, this is to aid in cleaning and can be used to help keep you out of the tick tree if you're being lowered.
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