Type: Sport, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches
FA: Derek Field, Andy McQuillen & Giselle Field (Thanksgiving 2019) --- ground-up
Page Views: 2,905 total · 59/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Mar 27, 2020
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

This ground-up bolted slab route ascends the blank southeast face of the main dome. Mediocre slabbing in a secluded setting, and an epic summit.

Pitch 1 (5.9, 100', 10 bolts): Climb the technicolor slab passing a friction crux at the 6th bolt. Two-bolt chain anchor at the lip of the Picnic Ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.2, 70', 4 bolts): Climb straight up the easy slab to a two-bolt chain anchor just below the summit stack.

Scramble (4th class) up and left onto the awesome summit. Dig the 360° view, sign the logbook, then reverse this scramble on the way down.

Descent: Rappel the route with one 60m rope.

Location Suggest change

Approach: about 30-45 minutes. Park at Turkey Creek Trailhead (high-clearance AWD vehicle recommended but not necessary). Hike up the main trail about 0.2 miles to a major junction where the official cairned Turkey Creek Trail goes right and an unofficial (but equally well developed) un-cairned trail branches off left. Take the left trail (at this point you will be hiking directly toward Turkey Dome for a bit) and follow it for a few hundred yards. As you enter a low area with many little washes, leave the trail and head left up a broad slickrock wash. A few hundred yards upstream, just past a fallen juniper that almost blocks the wash, look for a side trail that branches off right. This well developed trail brings you up and around to the base of the east side of the massif. Pick up a cairned side-trail through the limestone band and contour around to the large flat meadow immediately southeast of the spire. Reach the starting ledge by scrambling up and right on 4th-class slabs (path of least resistance). If you encounter a shiny glue-in bolt, you're at the base of the Original Route. Walk 30 feet right along the ledge to find the line of camouflaged bolts for Turkey Trot.

Protection Suggest change

10 quickdraws
one 60m rope

Photos

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