Type: | Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Leo Henson; 2010 |
Page Views: | 749 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Gosh Glance on Mar 15, 2020 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Justin Johnsen |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
P1: follows the chert up on balancy moves using somewhat delicate crimps. Very runout, probably 25' to first bolt on ~5.9 climbing (usually runouts at this crag are on very easy ground but this was sketchy). Single best pitch under 5.11 at Suburban Crag. Erik's Arete is a close second.
P2: after chert ends, gains a large ledge and then goes up a slightly overhung wall using a series of horizontal cracks and textured smears. Allegedly 5.9, but felt like stout 5.10- to me... you be the judge!
P3 (optional): one 5.8 move off the P2 anchors, but no bolts until the chains... P3 allows for summit top out and better rap position.
Two 35m raps to the ground.
P2: after chert ends, gains a large ledge and then goes up a slightly overhung wall using a series of horizontal cracks and textured smears. Allegedly 5.9, but felt like stout 5.10- to me... you be the judge!
P3 (optional): one 5.8 move off the P2 anchors, but no bolts until the chains... P3 allows for summit top out and better rap position.
Two 35m raps to the ground.
Location
P1 (5.10c): just to the left of Blu-Ray (the non-direct variation), it's the first route right if the cave. Anchors are easier to see if you step back from the wall about 15', they're just below and left of a pink cactus. 7 BOLTS
P2 (5.10a/b): goes up and right from chains. 7 BOLTS
(Optional) P3 (5.easy): 25' up and left to another set of chain anchors. Rock quality up and right of P2 chains is suspect. 0 BOLTS
P2 (5.10a/b): goes up and right from chains. 7 BOLTS
(Optional) P3 (5.easy): 25' up and left to another set of chain anchors. Rock quality up and right of P2 chains is suspect. 0 BOLTS
4 Comments