Type: Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches
FA: Leo Henson; 2010
Page Views: 456 total · 20/month
Shared By: Gosh Glance on Mar 15, 2020
Admins: Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

P1: follows the chert up on balancy moves using somewhat delicate crimps. Very runout, probably 25' to first bolt on ~5.9 climbing (usually runouts at this crag are on very easy ground but this was sketchy). Single best pitch under 5.11 at Suburban Crag. Erik's Arete is a close second.

P2: after chert ends, gains a large ledge and then goes up a slightly overhung wall using a series of horizontal cracks and textured smears. Allegedly 5.9, but felt like stout 5.10- to me... you be the judge!

P3 (optional): one 5.8 move off the P2 anchors, but no bolts until the chains... P3 allows for summit top out and better rap position.

Two 35m raps to the ground.

Location

P1 (5.10c): just to the left of Blu-Ray (the non-direct variation), it's the first route right if the cave. Anchors are easier to see if you step back from the wall about 15', they're just below and left of a pink cactus. 7 BOLTS

P2 (5.10a/b): goes up and right from chains. 7 BOLTS

(Optional) P3 (5.easy): 25' up and left to another set of chain anchors. Rock quality up and right of P2 chains is suspect. 0 BOLTS

Protection

7 bolts per pitch and chain anchors at the end of each

Photos